Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

Lake Atitlan is easily one of the most strikingly beautiful places I’ve see through all my travels.

The deep blue waters of the lake, surrounded by a crown of evergreen mountains and volcanos, rich with incredible vegetation and wild animals, are the perfect settings for the small villages that arise on its coast.

There are 3 ways to get to the lake from Guatemala City:

• By shared shuttle: from two people (by car) up to a group of 15 (by minivan). There are many operators that arrange this trip, from the capital to Panajachel. It’s a 5-6 hours drive, depending if there’s a scheduled bathroom/coffee stop on the way or not. Prices range between $30-$40 (230-310 quetzals)
• By private shuttle: basically a taxi ride. It will be faster than the shared shuttle, and it’ll cost you around $120-$150 (920-1,150 quetzals).
• By chicken bus: if you’re happy with a longer ride, many stops, and keeping a very vigilant eye on your belongings at all time, this is definitely the most Guatemalan-like way to make it to the lake. As you can imagine, this option is dead cheap, at about $4 (30 quetzals)

I opted for a shared shuttle car, so just me and another passenger.

Arriving at Panajachel – or Pana, like the locals call it – from Guatemala City, after a 5 hour ride, will remain in my mind as an absolute point of happiness in my memories.

Not just because I could finally part ways with my ride “companion”, a lovely but eccentrically chatty British woman, who seemingly never stopped talking to me for longer than a minute throughout the journey… even while I was pretending to be asleep.

No, that was just a joyful bonus.

But the real prize, was the stunning view that was expecting me at the pier.

The lake looked majestic under a sky that was turning darker and heavier.

A surreal lightning stricken carpet of clouds, coming from the mountains on the opposite side of the lake, right were my destination was: San Pedro La Laguna.

Panajachel pier is where you can take taxi boats to all the smaller – and more charming – villages on all the other parts of the lake.

Technically, you can reach them also by car, but it’ll be very lengthy, as you’ll have to drive up and down the narrow, serpent-like, tiny roads that move around the mountains.

Most people go by boat. It’s cheap, fast, and the scenery while you cross the waters, is exceptional!

So, that’s what I did.

On the boat, you’ll always meet a mix of locals who work in Pana but live in one of the other villages – or vice versa – in addition to the occasional solo traveler, and little groups of tourists.

There’s enough space on board for maybe 30-35 people, but usually there’ll be only from 4-5 passengers up to 15.

Two things you may wanna keep in mind are:

1) you can’t book these rides online. You’ll have to buy your ticket at the little kiosk on the pier – cash only, folks! Don’t even dream of arriving there with your card in your hand, it’s a NO-GO.

And 2) your backpack, suitcase, carry-on bag or whatever medium to large piece of luggage you have with you, will not be allowed in the seating area, but instead will be placed on the flat roof of the boat. Yup. Even if it rains.

And that’s just the way it is, so really spare yourself the convincing argument your mind is already elaborating, as, I guarantee you, it won’t work. They won’t let you take it inside.

The bag goes on the top. End of the story.

And while the first time around you might feel a bit uneasy about letting some kid grab your bag and throw it up there – a worry which might increase once the ride begins, and the wavey waters of Atitlan rock the boat from side to side – rest assured, your luggage is safe.

It won’t drop into the deep waters, nor will it be picked up by anyone else on arrival.

These guys running the lancha business, are skilled in their way to navigate the lake, they’re some of the most honest people I met in Atitlan, and they take great pride in bringing their passengers and their belongings to destination safe and sound.

Just sit and enjoy the ride. It’s worthy!

Just remember to put all your tech devices in a smaller bag that’ll you be allowed to take inside the boat with you, especially if it rains.

In my case, we were more or less halfway across the lake, when the thunderstorm finally hit.

I have never seen storms like the storms at Lake Atitlan.

The lake turns into a plum color, mirroring the dark sky above, while lightning that seems to go on forever, breaks the cloudy ceiling all around.

Thunders roar louder than I’ve ever heard them anywhere else, echoing around the mountains, while a literal wall of rain crushes down relentlessly… it feels supernatural! It’s unbelievable!

That day, it became quite windy in the middle of the lake, so the surface transformed from flat to a curling, undulating, cover that made for a deliciously bumpy ride!

Personally I loved it – then again, I’m Venetian, crossing choppy waters by boat is embedded in my DNA – but there was some loud screaming coming from the back of the boat, where a group of girls from Denmark weren’t handling too enthusiastically the mix of bad weather and boat slamming side to side, and up and down, on the waves…

Anyways, once crossed the lake, the boat starts skirting the shoreline stopping at all the villages just for few minutes, which gives enough time to get off, collect your stuff and be on your way.

There are 11 villages dispersed all over Atitlan’s coast.

8 of them are on the main lancha route from Pana, and while these are spread around in all directions, in practical terms, they’re all fairly near to one another.

In fact, there’s no more than 5-6 minutes from one stop to the next, before finally landing at San Pedro La Laguna.

Down here is the boat itinerary of that day. Sometimes there are variations, depending on the embarcaderos, but this is the typical ride from Pana to the other townlets:

• Panajachel (this is where you’ll buy your ticket at the little kiosk on the pier for 25-30q one way…cash only!)
• Santa Cruz: (more or less 15 mins from Pana)
• Jaibalito: (more or less 4 mins from Santa Cruz)
• Tz’unún: (more or less 6 mins from Jaibalito)
• San Marcos: (more or less 5 mins from Tz’unún)
• San Pablo: (more or less 5 mins from San Marcos)
• San Juan: (more or less 3 mins from San Pablo)
• San Pedro La Laguna: (more or less 2 mins from San Juan)

Landing at the central pier of San Pedro La Laguna you’ll be taken back by its quirkiness right away.

The uphill street from the embarcadero is immediately welcoming, with restaurants and bars on both sides. Those at the bottom boast large covered terraces that stand over the water, usually quite busy with music, good vibes, and travelers and locals enjoying food and drinks looking over the lake and surrounding mountains.

In the center you’ll find colorful arts & crafts shops, kiosks displaying hand made necklaces and bracelets, as well as cheerful hippie-looking stores that sell anything from clothes to candles.

It was pouring down when I arrived, and the thunderstorm was still in full swing, so I decide to stop at the first restaurant on the left side of the pier, for a drink and something to eat.

Good choice… as, the second I stepped onto the floor of Nick’s Place, the wind went down, but the rain, which already seemed impossibly heavy, really decided to turn it up a notch or two…

I’m telling you, it was as if the sky had decided to slap us all with a mantle of rain that covered the whole lake and mountains… showing us how little control we have on our own plans, and how nature is bigger, more unpredictable, and more powerful than our human minds can really comprehend.

It was there and then, sitting by myself at a table on the outer corner of Nick’s Place terrace, gazing over the faint lights on the coast, where the other small towns are, that I decided to start writing about my travels… It was in that moment, listening to the music in the background, and the sound of rain pelting down on the terrace roof…

At this point in my globetrotting journey, I was already ghost writing, and it would be another two years from that day before I finally took the plunge and started this website. But the seed was planted into my mind that afternoon, listening to the rain, looking at the clouds… at Lake Atitlan.

Exception made for Panajachel and another couple of towns, which stand on a more flat area, most of the townlets around Atitlan are pretty much built vertically, due to the fact that there’s only a narrow stretch of levelled ground on the coast, but besides this thin coastal area, the whole surroundings are upwards.

Particularly in San Pedro.

You’ll notice this from the moment you arrive in the village, as the street that takes you from the lancha pier into town, is very much uphill.

The first street that crosses your way going up, is the “main street”, and it’s one of a small handful of calles that pass through the village horizontally, parallel to the coastline. All the other streets run uphill/downhill.

So be aware that, no matter what part of town you are in, unless you’re in the center, you’ll be either walking up, or walking down some steep streets, sometimes, very steep.

It’s actually a brilliant workout!

Besides the uphill streets and vivacious atmosphere of the center, San Pedro feels like a serene little village.

It’s a place that has found some balance between maintaining its original Mayan core and being a long, or short-term home to expats and travelers from all parts of the planet.

The native culture is represented in the traditional art that you’ll see all over town. From the artifacts displayed at Tz’ unun Ya’ museum, which embody the cultural history of the indigenous inhabitants of Atitlan, to the murales in the streets, depicting all sorts of Mayan heritage scenes.

Walking around San Pedro La Laguna, you’ll find yourself immersed into amazing and colorful street art that stretches all the way along the calles. Humble, honest, and gorgeous.

If you have the time, take a minute to stop and really look at the murals. There’s a mesmerizing quality to them. Something that gets inside your heart… a bond of some sort.

These amazing murales are spread all over town, and they’re here to tell you stories, to show you the connection between the Mayan culture, nature, animals and time. A connection that goes back to ancient eras that we still don’t know much about. A connection made of respect, mystery and beauty, that’s still alive in the art, as well as in the hearts, of the Tz’utujil people…

It is as foreign to the western mind, as it is enchanting. Like a legend or a fairytale that tells a magical story. A story that then, turns up to be true.

One thing that surprised me about Lake Atitlan, is the huge variety of restaurants. Especially in San Pedro!

Here you’ll find all sorts of cuisines from genuinely skilled chefs from all over the world. Expats from Japan, USA, Italy, Greece, Israel and other amazing culinary meccas all over the globe, have brought their own culture and flavors to this part of Guatemala, turning San Pedro and San Marcos into real foodies hubs!

Here is a list of the places I loved the most, in no particular order, they’re all AWESOME:

IDEA CONNECTION: Italian flavors and amazing coffee in the coziest garden in Atitlan!

I love Idea Connection! It’s a bakery, it’s a coffee place, it’s a restaurant… who knows??! Whatever it’s meant to be, I love it! You walk in, and right there, there’s a counter with the most scrumptious baked goods, from almond croissants to brownies, and chocolate chip cookies. Then you turn right and find yourself in some sort of cute secret garden divided in cozy sections so that each table has its own space and privacy. The part of the garden where the tables are located is in a U-shape and it’s covered, which is perfect for those rainy days when you want to sit somewhere cozy, drink a real good espresso, and just chill.

Besides the perfect sweet pastries, another must-try, are the huge stuffed focaccias.

I often ordered them to go, and, on top of those featured on the menu, you can create your own, and the good people at Idea Connection will put close to anything you wish in it! So good!

Bottom line, great vibe, great coffee, great Italian food!

• Location: it’s in 7 Avenida, about 9 minutes from the center. From the embarcadero, walk left in the main street for about 4 minutes, then turn into a very narrow long street at the end of which you’ll turn left and keep walking passed a few artisanal shops and the Tz’unun Ya museum, up to the end of the road. Turn left and then right and you’ll be in 7 Avenida. Walk down 7 Avenida for about 60 meters. It’s on your left, you can see the garden from the street.
• Type of food: amazing baked goods. Also pasta, focaccias, baguettes and sandwiches. Great coffee!
• Veggies & vegan options: many choices for vegetarians, but not much for vegans.
• Prices: $-$$

SALUD PARA VIDA: healthy food store + books & incense + vegan food to die for!

Salud Para Vida is great for two reasons: the excellent vegan/veggie restaurant upstairs, and the super well-stocked healthy grocery shop below.

In the store you’ll find everything from organic honey, gluten free pasta, and vegan cheese (Violife, the good stuff!), to scented candles, incense sticks and essential oils. I used to do most of my shopping here. In fact, the only thing I didn’t buy at Salud Para Vida were fruits and vegetables, as they don’t sell them, (and anyways you’re going to want to do all your veggie shopping at the mercado de San Pedro, believe me!).

The restaurant consist in few tables upstairs. A few of them are indoors, but the best sits are on the cute terrace that looks over the roofs and down on the buzzing calle.

I think I tried everything here! The seitan burgers are insanely good, all the burgers and bowls are home made and super tasty, but for me the big star is the French fries with coconut bacon and almond nacho cheese. You’ll have to roll home afterwards, but it’s worth it!

Also, they have a great choice of excellent fresh squeezed juices that will vitaminize you from head to toe!

• Location: on the main street. From the embarcadero, turn right and walk for about 3 minutes, it’s opposite Hotel Casa Elena, on the right.
• Type of Food: amazing plant based/gluten free/dairy free comfort food. Home made vegan burgers. Oh!… and they got cakes too! So good!
• Veggies & vegan options: Hella yeah!
• Prices: $-$$

SABABA: Israeli food, great iced coffees and amazing views.

Sababa is where I went almost every day for a bite and an iced coffee.

The food is exceptional, and there’s enough variety to be ideal for those times when you’re really hungry after a hike, but also for those other moments, when you just fancy a drink and a nibble.

I became obsessed with their hummus and pan fried eggplant, but to be honest everything they serve here is crazy tasty! Their iced coffees are also top notch, and the view from their double deck terrace is by far one of the best in the whole village, if not on the entire coast of Atitlan.

• Location: on the main street, from the embarcadero, turn right. It’s a couple on minutes down the road, on the right.
• Type of food: Israelian dishes and nibbles, sandwiches, salads, breakfast and great coffee, juices, wine, cocktails.
• Veggie & vegan options: Yes.
• Prices: $$

JAKUU: big portions, friendly folks and tasty Guatemalan dishes!

At first look, Jakuu will just seem like a very humble option compared to the other restaurants in San Pedro. Don’t get me wrong, there’s nothing wrong with the layout of the place, it’s just simple and the decor is not maybe as attractive as those of other places in the village.

But it makes up for it with it’s friendly staff and awesome Guatemalan food and fish dishes!

The portions are huge, and the food is delicious and definitely cheaper than in most other places.

If you’re in a hurry, this is probably not the place for you, as they take quite some time to bring out the food, but judging by the goodness of the comida, I’d say that’s because they genuinely put love and attention in what they prepare! Totally worth the wait!

• Location: From the embarcadero, walk left in the main street for about 4 minutes, then turn into a very narrow long street at the end of which you’ll turn left and keep walking passed a few artisanal shops and the Tz’ unun Ya museum, Jakuu is at the end of the road on the right.
• Type of food: Guatemalan, mostly fish. Big portions. Friendly atmosphere.
• Veggie & vegan options: it’s not really ideal for vegetarians and vegans.
• Prices: $

SMOKIN’ JOE’S: American BBQ and beers by the pool!

Smokin’ Joe’s is where you want to be on a hot Sunday!

It’s open also on most days of the week, but what they’re truly famous for, is their Sunday American style BBQ, which I have to say it’s pretty epic!

Here you’ll get all the staple grilling you would expect at an actual US barbecue: brisket, pulled pork, steaks, ribs, you name it! And to keep it as close to the original americana as possible, they serve some very tasty coleslaw, mac & cheese, corn on the cob and potato salad.

Expats, locals and travelers alike, gather here for food, cocktails, and fun in the garden pool every Sunday.

It’s a very energetic vibe, and the cocktails are kinda strong, so you can expect to have a laugh! Very good place to meet people!

• Location: from the embarcadero principal make it to 7 Avenida (see direction for Idea Connection) and from there keep walking up to the end, where you turn left, and the right. Follow the street until the end and then turn left again, Smokin’ Joe’s in on the left, about 20 meters before you reach the lake.
• Type of food: American BBQ, beers, cocktails and music.
• Veggie & vegan options: well, beside the side dishes, they do grill vegetables at the Sunday’s bbq. The grilled portobello mushrooms, in particular, are delicious…
• Price: $$

SUBLIME: beautiful views and nice drinks.

While Sublime is technically a restaurant/bar, it’s really the second classification where it shines.

It has beautiful levelled terraces over the lake, and personally I liked sitting there with a drink and a book during the day, when the vibe is chilled and relaxed.

It’s one of the best places to go to in the evening, as it puts up different musical events, from reggae gigs to acoustic and techno nights, and so on.

I’d say it’s worthy for the chilled vibe during the day, for a nice drink (alcoholic or not) looking over the beautiful lake. I skipped the busy nights and loud parties, as I’m not into that, but if that’s your thing, this is the place to go after 7PM.

The food is okay, neither bad nor memorable… not knocking it, but there’s better places where to eat in San Pedro.

• Location: from the main embarcadero walk on the right for 2 minutes.
• Type of food: a bit of everything: from steaks and fries, to sea food platters, to Mexican nachos, and American style burgers, Turkish kebabs, salads, and Thai curry. They’re mostly popular for their cocktails, beers and shots.
• Veggie and vegan options: not that much variety besides the salads.
• Prices: $$

EL EMBARCADERO: cakes and sweet pastries probably DEFINITELY made in HEAVEN!!

Awwww-Myyyyy-Gaaaawwwwwddd!!! If you like a good cake or muffin, this little gem is a MUST during your time in San Pedro!

It’s a tiny place round the corner from the main embarcadero. I think there’s maybe just a couple of places where to sit inside and doesn’t have a terrace or garden, but boy-OOOH-BOY do they make the best pastries and desserts in the whole of Guatemala!

I’m talking “insanely good” stuff!

It’s the “I’ll take one of each… of everything you got” level of goodness!

Also, to top up the awesomeness of their baked goods, the owners are super kind and friendly. It’s a family-run little business, father, mother and their kid, and in more than one occasion they saved me a piece of my favorite cake, or one of their delicious muffins, knowing I would certainly turn up at some point before closing time…

GOOD PEOPLE…GREAT CAKES! What more can you ask for??

They also make really nice pizzas, sandwiches and some savory pastry… but the desserts…ooohhh the desserts…!!! YOU. MUST. TRY!!!

• Location: as the name indicates, this is right next to the embarcadero, just go up to the corner with the main street, and it’s on the left.
• Type of food: baked goods to die for!
• Veggie and vegan options: I don’t think there’s anything for vegans, but for vegetarians it’s a big YES!
• Prices: $-$$

You just have to search for “San Pedro La Laguna” on any vacation rental app to see that there’s no shortage of accommodations in this town.

In fact, there are myriads of options all over Lake Atitlan, but the vast majority are in San Pedro and San Marcos, being that these two villages are the ones that attract the most travelers.

I was at Lake Atitlan in July and August, and while I had booked an apartment on Airbnb before arriving, I soon realized that had I not reserved anything pre-arrival, finding a nice place on the spot, with all the amenities I needed – aka WIFI, kitchen, big bed – would have easily fell into the “a piece of cake” category!

You can literally throw a rock in any direction in San Pedro, and you’ll hit a small hotel, an apartment for rent, or in the worst case scenario, a hostel.

Coming from the main embarcadero, just walk up and turn right at the first corner into the “main street” – the first street that crosses your way running parallel to the coastline – here you’ll encounter a great variety of high and mid range hotels, as well as hostels.

You’ll also see signs with private hosts’ phone numbers offering vacation apartments or “cabañitas” at much cheaper prices than what you’ll find on most apps.

You’ll find more hotels, going left from the embarcadero, once you pass the stretch of road where there are shops, activity agencies and restaurants.

Basically, this whole street is jam-packed with accommodations right in the middle of the action, which is great if you’re planning to be out partying ’til 4am every night.. but, if you want to sleep at night, you might want to get a nice apartment a bit out of the central party zone. You’ll be close to everything anyways.

That’s right. No matter where your accommodation is, you’re never more than 15-20 minutes walk from the center anyways.

And, of course, in Atitlan, like anywhere else, the nicer the place the higher the price.

But being Guatemala, it’s all very economical. In fact, you can get an Airbnb apartment with strong WIFI for $200 a week, or a fancy hotel room for $400 a week, or a beautiful suite with pool in front of the lake for $900 a week. Your call!

My apartment was mid-range in price, about ten minutes walk from the center, up the hill, in a nice and quiet street facing the lake. It was a quirky space, which I liked!

The entrance lead straight into a spacious bedroom, nothing particularly unusual here.

But the next door would take you into – or should I say “out to” – the kitchen/dining room, which only had three walls. Where the fourth wall should have been, there was a large garden!

Ya-haa! Basically, there were tiles on the floor right up to where the kitchen/dining room area ends, and then… you stepped outside! Brilliant!

The garden itself was defined by a 3-side wall with a staircase on one side that lead up to the rooftop. From up there, I could see the lake on one end, and the mountains all around the other sides. Amazing view!

But the fun part was that, the bathroom and the shower were also outdoors!

Both of them were located on one side of the garden, in a couple of booth-sort-of-spaces, under the stairs.

I had a headlamp on my nightstand in case I had to go to the bathroom at night… ya’ know to avoid stepping on things, or little garden creatures crawling around.

Then, after a month, when my reservation was over, I moved to a little hotel called Adulam, which is an absolute little gem of a place, located on the “main road”. This is one of the hotels you’ll find when you walk up, and then right, from the central embarcadero.

The main two reasons why I really liked Adulam were: the people who run the place, and the shower!

The first reason is fairly straightforward. The hotel is run by a lovely, honest and very hard working Guatemalan family, that takes great pride in offering clean, stylish and modern rooms in a prime location, right across the street from the lake, and 3-minute walk from the nicest restaurants, bars, shops and coffee places in San Pedro.

The rooms are nice and cozy, the beds are comfortable and the WIFI is stellar. And, above all, the ensuite bathrooms have safe showers…

“Safe showers”. Now, this are two words you might have not placed together in a sentence, unless you’ve been to Central America….

I shall explain…

So, here’s the kicker…

…among all of the nice stuff Guatemala has to offer, the country is also known for its infamous “suicide showers”. Yup.

That’s the inglorious nickname earned by some super dodgy electric showers, that have been responsible for quite a few incidents in Central America, particularly in Guatemala…

In fact, here, this type of showers come with colorful, EXPOSED wires (oh the fun!) that run into the shower head from the water heating system which receives the water from the tank usually situated on the roof.

The picture below is the actual shower from my San Pedro apartment, so that you get a good idea of what we’re talking about. I had to cover up the brand name ’cause after getting almost electrocuted a few times by this thing, I don’t want to risk being sued as well…ya’ know…

Now, I’m not bashing ALL electric showers. In fact, if well grounded and installed properly, they are pretty safe. But the ones I encountered around Lake Atitlan were mostly not. And, as someone who got zapped, scolded and almost electrocuted several times during my stay in San Pedro and San Marcos, I can tell you, while it might not kill you, you’ll have a very special relationship with sparks of all kind, afterwards….!

For this reason, I’d like to highlight the one place in Atitlan where the shower heads didn’t look like they wanted to kill me half way between shampoo and conditioner! Thank you Adulam hotel! I appreciate you!

So, if you’re going to be in San Pedro or San Marcos, maybe you wanna check out the shower situation before you get in… you know, test it out, and if the water suddenly gets super hot and the knob is incandescent… just run!! RUN!!

I stayed at Late Atitlan for two months, mostly in San Pedro, but also in San Marcos for a couple of weeks, and a couple of days in Panajachel.

It was a strange time in my life and it almost feels as if I was a completely different person then, even though it was just two years ago.

Now, thinking back, I remember everything with a smile in my heart..

The good times, like the long hikes up the hills and mountains. Walking though the streets of the market filling up bags with fresh fruits and vegetables. Playing cards with those I made friends with. Working on drawings with a couple of local tattoo artists. And hours kayaking on my own, from a village to the next…

And the challenging stuff, like arguing in the rain with a tuktuk driver when he almost run over two stray kittens outside my apartment, and me with them, when I went to protect them. And yeah, even jumping out of the shower, or better, out of a “blaze” of scolding water, burning hot steam, and blue sparks… they’re all good memories now.

But more than anything, the elements that I remember more fondly, and that I’ll always keep with me, are the kindness of the locals, especially those native of this region, who grew up around the lake.

And the welcoming and genuine big hearts of the Tz’utujil people who told me about their lives, their history and their traditions.

The other element that remains with me, is Lake Atitlan itself.

I swam in it.

I crossed it from one coast to the other.

First with a boat. Then in a catamaran.

And finally with a kayak. Many many many times.

I spent hours sitting on its shore.

Drawing. Writing. Taking a ridiculous amount of mostly unusable pictures…

And I spent even more time talking to its waters.

Telling them about my stuff.

Telling them what was going through my mind.

Just talking to this big, deep, beautiful pool of blue, the same way that I would talk to you, or to a friend.

And the funny thing is…

…it listened.

Weiss Cooper